Having not been away all summer and with the depressing weather, I was very much looking forward to my trip to Mustang Monument in mid-August so with my cowboy chic wardrobe safely packed, I boarded my flight to Vegas which I thought would be an exciting stop over, having never been.
I was making
myself comfortable and relishing the thought of being able to read the Saturday
Telegraph undisturbed when my fellow passenger, a friendly American on her way
home asked where I was going so I told her “Mustang Monument" to which she
replied "oh are you nervous about going there?" "Why would I be nervous?"
I queried rather confused. "Well you know, it's men only?" I laughed
and explained that this was definitely not the case.
Evidently
there is a similarly named establishment of ill repute so Mustang Monument Wild
Horse Eco Ranch is not to be confused with this one.
After checking in to the Four Seasons Vegas,
we had a quick turnaround before being collected by Maverick Tours for our
sunset helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon .There was a little too much
waiting around for my liking ...almost an hour from arriving at the terminal to
departure but they had to weigh everyone and allocate groups on that basis so I
guess there is not much one can do to change that. We met our very suave pilot Kevin;
clearly straight out of Top Gun and after a safety briefing we boarded the
helicopter. This was my first helicopter ride since a very unfortunate incident
in one some five years ago so I was feeling a mixture of excitement and
trepidation but as we rose over Hoover Dam with the bright sun shining over the
Canyon, I relaxed and took in the incredible views below. One can certainly appreciate
why it is listed amongst the wonders of the world.
We landed to
enjoy the sunset deep in the Canyon where rustic wooden benches had been built
to host champagne and snacks. As I sat there in awe, it struck me just how
insignificant we are as humans when one takes in this feat of nature and yet we
think we are so powerful.
Flying back
into the sunset and along the "strip" now illuminated for the nights
activities, I thought about how lucky I am and would definitely recommend this
experience for clients.
We were
transported back to our hotel and had intended to go out to see the nightlife
but by 9pm the jetlag was taking hold and so after a delicious slice of New
York cheese cake, I nestled into the divine Four Seasons bed....
I didn’t
need the 5am alarm call - I was up and ready for the next stage of our trip,
the reason for being here - to visit
Mustang Monument Eco Horse Resort (mustang monument.com)and was very excited.
We left the
hotel at 6am for the short drive to the airport with a very chirpy cab driver
who insisted on giving his opinion of USA politics .We nodded and smiled politely,
well as much as we could muster at 6am on a Sunday after a transatlantic
flight!
We had the
usual queues for check in and paid for our bags on Delta (which I have not
experienced before), grabbed a leisurely coffee and made our way to the gate 20
minutes before departure only to be told by a very discourteous member of Delta
staff that we would not be boarding the flight and it became apparent when she
said to another woman who looked very embarrassed "Do not speak to them”. After much debate it transpired that she had
sold our seats which is evidently not that unusual with American carriers and
with only standby status for the next flight, we decided to hire a car and
drive from Vegas to Salt Lake City!
As we stood
at the Avis desk the receptionist said "Do you ladies know what you are
doing driving through Death Valley when there is a heat warning? Make sure you
take plenty of water and snacks as there is nowhere to stop!"
At that
point I was wondering whether this was a good decision but the alternative was
sitting in Vegas airport all day so we had little choice and figured it would
be fun to do a road trip!
Actually the
journey passed incredibly quickly, the highlight being stopping for a Haagan
Daaz which had almost melted by the time
we'd walked back to the car....There were actually several places to stop and
refuel so admittedly we had a day of eating trash but after six hours we
recognised the iconic tepees of Mustang Monument on our right and finally
we arrived at the ranch at 5pm. Sadly we had missed the days ride up Spruce
Mountain which the other guests said was amazing, particularly the picnic lunch
with breath taking views across the valleys.
I checked in
to my cottage which was a very high end version of something from "Home on
the Range", beautifully furnished with a big bathroom featuring a free
standing bath. With 20 rooms in total, there is a choice of accommodation,
tepee or cottage and the general consensus from the group was that the cottages
are preferable for adults mainly due to the fact that the bathroom is outside
in the tepees but we all agreed that the tepees were fabulous for maybe one
night or definitely for teenagers. They too are beautifully designed but much
colder at night.
There are
also a number of dining tepees and dinner was served in one of the larger ones
that night ...a unique experience and hats off to the waiters who have to
negotiate the low level entrance when serving each course!
Owner
Madeleine Pickens is currently building a new kitchen and restaurant
overlooking the plains which will be ready for next season and this will make a
huge difference to the food service as currently they have to walk quite a way
from kitchen to dinner venues.
Traditionally
everyone retires to the Saloon after dinner and I have to say this was my
favourite place of all in the ranch be it for cocktails, lunch or cards and
games. It has been beautifully restored in true Wild West style with original
saddle seats and tasteful throws; it really comes to life in the evening.
Breakfast
the next morning was served at the saloon deck and offered an array of fresh fruits,
homemade oatmeal and scones, yoghurts and smoothies.
It was a
very relaxed affair and I am told that when Madeleine is in house, guests are
invited to her house for breakfast.
After
breakfast we were taken out to feed the horses which was an incredible
experience as there is clearly a pecking order in which they feed and during
the course of two hours , the mustangs come to feed , some more nervous than
others but with them all together including young foals, it was a spectacle to
behold. A big part of the whole experience at Mustang Monument is undoubtedly
chatting to Clay, head rodeo and his team whose knowledge of these horses and
close support of Madeleine's cause to save America's mustangs is very apparent.
Hearing all about how Madeleine started and the lengths they have gone to thus
far was fascinating. I have no doubt that this would be a highlight of the
whole guest experience as well as the expert riding and plethora of activities
on offer.
Lunches
tended to be delicious salads and cold meats or fish and these were well
presented and served mainly in the saloon. It's fair to say that we all looked
forward to the lunches.
The
afternoon of Day 2, we left in convoy for the 90 minute drive to Goshute Valley
for what I had considered the highlight of the trip and the part I was most
looking forward to (a little ironic as I like my creature comforts!)
We were
treated to a session on the shooting range under the expert guidance of Niks,
an ex US Navy seal and whose main priority was safety but he made it fun and even
by his own admission was surprised at the expertise of his all female group!
Those who
did not want to do shooting went on a safari drive and saw herds of mustang
cantering across the spectacular valley.
Dinner was a
barbeque, served by the Mustang Monument team and as all meals and drinks (excluding
champagne) are included, guests were offered a selection of wines, beers and a
mean punch which went down far too easily!
There are
nine Californian trail wagons in situ at the Goshute Valley and all can
accommodate two people. They are basic but clean and there are plenty of
blankets as it did get chilly during the early hours. Each has hot water and a
basin but we were told to just take our toothbrush and PJs. Being the cold
creature I am, I wore PJs and my clothes and at one point with Clint Eastwood
nowhere in sight, I was still tempted to hop in beside my colleague Frangelica!
Next morning, we discussed placing fleecy pyjamas in the wagons for next
year.
Of course we
had all woken up early and breakfast was a simple affair with fruit, yoghurts
and the most delicious homemade lemon cake and brownies. I have to admit I have
never actually had cake for breakfast but I thought I'd try it and ended up
having both ....in hindsight it was good preparation for the Napa Valley
experience ahead where we were tasting wine at 11am!
On
journeying back to the ranch, we were all looking forward to a hot shower but
actually when Niks suggested taking the mavericks out, we found renewed energy
and decided the shower could wait as we were going to get very dusty anyway!
Wow ... What an experience that was! If your clients like adrenalin fuelled activities,
they will love this. There are four people to a maverick and we nominated our
American travel industry colleague as our driver, little did we know that she
clearly had Ayrton Senna blood in her somewhere. We drove up Ruby Mountain at
great speed and at the top climbed to the top of the ridge which had the most
incredible vista. It was on the way down that the "girl racer" kicked
in and boy was I scared.
Once we
reached home, I got out, heart racing but pleased that I had opted in for such
an exhilarating experience. Be warned....
Dinner on
the last night was in the saloon and with much to talk about Clay and the team
gave us a great send off. We had shared much fun and laughter and created
memories which would stay with us for a long time to come.
The alarm
was set for 4.15 am for the drive back to Salt Lake City for the next leg of
our trip to Napa Valley which I thought would combine well with Mustang
Monument.
We were met
at San Francisco airport by Michael of Napa Valley Tours and Transportation who
turned out to be our guardian angel for the next three days.
Having
arrived at Auberge du Soleil slightly later than planned due to heavy traffic,
we had a quick turnaround before a site inspection and dinner. I loved this
hotel and we were made to feel so welcome by Carol and Renee and their
colleagues.
Dinner was
absolutely spectacular and of course accompanied by delicious wines from the
region expertly explained by the sommelier.
The next
morning we were leaving early to visit some wineries and see what all the fuss
is about!
For me the
olive oil tasting at Round Hill winery was very special. We learnt all about
the process involved in making the different oils from traditional olive oil to
orange, basil and lime fusions, each one tastier than the other and the small
bites we were served to taste the oils were scrumptious.
It's fair to
say that between us we did considerable damage in the shop before leaving!
Merus was
the second winery we visited and this is by appointment only and much smaller
operating for private members only. As I am not a wine drinker and there was no
champagne in sight I took my colleagues word for the fact that each one
excelled .Here we tasted wine at $800 per bottle so one for your discerning
wine lovers.
Lunch was at
Calistoga Ranch where we were greeted by the iconic General Manager Connie and
her team and enjoyed yet another outstanding lunch at the Lake House restaurant
overlooking Lake Rommel. Calistoga Ranch is all about nature and actually fits
extremely well with Mustang Monument as a two centre combination. There are
over 100 acres in which to explore be it hiking, cycling or running followed by
relaxation in their state of the art spa.
Dinner that
evening in The Cave was a real treat - such a unique venue as the name implies
and ideal for private family affairs and weddings. As we walked in we were all
wondering how we would actually face another meal but Chef Aaron Meneghelli who
has an impressive CV which includes Carneros Inn did us proud and we soon
forgot that we had been eating virtually all day!
Aaron is
inspired by nature and uses virtually everything in the gardens at Calistoga
Ranch and I mean everything so you will find flowers and unusual wild herbs in
his creative dishes, all beautifully presented.
After a busy
but wonderful culinary day, we waddled to bed....
Four of us
booked a wakeup call for 7am to do a hike before we left and after the previous
day’s indulgence we were so glad we did, not just for the spectacular views in
the morning mist but also to make up for all our sins the day before!
Before we left,
we visited the chicken coup which may sound rather an odd thing to do but trust
me you have never seen anything like this chicken coup. It is Connie’s treasure
and the chickens (Connie’s girls as they are affectionately known) enjoy art
work on the walls including a portrait of Connie and a fabulous chandelier. She
is even talking about putting a shower in for them. Rumour has it that when she
needs a break, she goes and talks to her girls!
After
collecting our eggs and enjoying a delicious omelette, we were met by trusty
Michael who would transfer us to our last destination, San Francisco.
We were
greeted enthusiastically by all the team at Loews Hotel (previously Mandarin Oriental). Loews is located in the
financial district but actually it was only a 10 minute walk to Union Square
and the main shopping area. We had been allocated Superior City View rooms
which were very spacious and comfortable. The views were indeed amazing and
Greg Nigh the DOS had generously arranged for us all to have a complimentary
massage in their lovely spa which was a haven away from the buzz of the city.
The hotel itself feels slightly corporate but the staff were absolutely superb
and dinner on Friday night was very pleasant.
On Saturday
morning we hit the shops (unfortunately we did not have time to do Alzcatraz)
which was very successful as there was a huge sale at Macy’s with one of the
group purchasing six pairs of shoes....well a girl can never have enough!
One of the
highlights for me was wandering around The Ferry Building which was just a five
minute walk from Loews and on a Saturday morning there is an amazing organic
food market. There was a great buzz and with Golden Gate Bridge in the
background I would definitely recommend it. We had a light lunch in the sun and
then treated ourselves to an ice cream from the infamous Humphry Slocombe...it had
to be done especially as we’d starved ourselves all week!
So that was the
end of our trip and we headed for the airport mentally preparing for our
forthcoming detox......
