Palazzo Avino

The thought of a 3.45am wake up call was less than appealing but experiencing the dawn concert at The Ravello Music Festival  has been on my bucket list for a long time so I ‘leapt’out of bed and headed for Gatwick in the dark, wee small hours.

Travelling Business Class is of course so much more civilised and the three hour flight whizzed by as I caught up on the inbox, making the most of some blissful, uninterrupted time. 

On arrival in Naples, along with half the population of Tel Aviv it seemed, I was thrilled to see the Palazzo Avino driver with my name board. He whizzed me through the crowds and we were soon on our way to paradise on the Amalfi Coast! 

After a warm welcome by Mariella Avino and her team, I headed for lunch on the Belvedere Terrace where my early alarm call and the Autumnal August weather became a distant memory as I soaked up the iconic view in the sunshine.

There is nothing quite like that first glass of prosecco when you arrive in the Mediterranean. I inhaled deeply, acknowledging how lucky I am.

On entering my room, a deluxe sea view, I pinched myself ! It doesn't matter how much I travel I am still very conscious of the fact that to experience places like Palazzo Avino is a privilege. Resisting the urge to just collapse onto the frette linen bedding , I quickly changed and made my way to the pool. It was lovely to hear so many different languages being spoken by the mixed clientele Italian , Russian , American and English and I spent a leisurely Wednesday embracing the rugged coastline, once again in total awe of the vista before me.

I dined at Villa Maria in Ravello that evening which has stunning views. They also run an excellent cookery course but make sure you go hungry and do not have lunch beforehand as we did, as you will savour the results of your hard work afterwards on their lovely terrace.

On Thursday morning I slept late and of course enjoyed the wonderful breakfast on the terrace at Palazzo Avino . Can anyone tell me why fresh fruit tastes so good in the Med? Every year I try to prepare a fresh fruit platter for breakfast at home during summer months, but it's just not the same.

The rest of the day was spent doing exactly what I had planned to do…nothing! A leisurely spot of sunbathing by the pool, a wander into Ravello (without sinning at the linen shop!), finishing off with delicious grilled sea bass and vegetables at the hotel's Terrazzo Belvedere. It's interesting how traveling solo on holiday can actually feel perfectly comfortable . It was a first for me (and to be honest not without some trepidation) but I need’nt have worried. Perhaps it was because they all know me, but there was another single lady who actually stays at Palazzo Avino twice a year on her own and never thinks twice about it. In an ideal world though, the Amalfi coast is made for sharing! 

Friday arrived bringing the highlight of my trip. The Concerto d'Allba ( dawn concert ) takes place every year on August 11th as part of the Ravello Music Festival ( July - Sept). Another 3.50 am wake up call! I got dressed excitedly and headed for the piazza . 

You cannot believe how lively it was at 4.15 am with  crowds of well dressed, glamorous concert goers, chatting animatedly whilst ordering much needed expresso from the cafe which had opened early for the occasion. At 4.30am we entered Villa Rufolo, which in itself is an enchanting experience, and took our seats. It was completely dark when the concert started. We sat in anticipation as the orchestra took their seats and warmed up until Antonello Venditti entered the stage to rapturous applause . 

It's hard to explain how spectacular this performance was, but let's just say it lived up to my every expectation. I would highly recommend it and ticket prices are around 60 Euro so very reasonable, though obviously hard to come by unless of course you know Antonio Ferrera , Front Office Manager at Palazzo Avino since 1997. When it comes to getting things done, Antonio is a magician! I have the greatest respect for him and his knowledge and passion for the area. Simply unequalled! 

What does one do after such an extravaganza when it's still not even 7am ! I tried in vain to go back to sleep - how could I ? 

I decided to go to Amalfi but have to say it was so crowded and hot that I made a speedy retreat back to " The Pink Palace". It's just like coming home. As I write this, I am flying back after three wondrous nights and the kind of special memories that will stay with me for a very long time .

I consider my bucket list well and truly ticked. Now, what’s next… 

Two Nights in Courchevel

You don’t have to love skiing to fall in love with Portetta Mountain Lodges. Of course, they boast all the requisite attributes of great ski accommodation, including ski-in, ski-out access to the stunning slopes of Courchevel 1650, a fully equipped boot room, a heated drive, and a roaring fire. But it’s all the other comforts and touches that make them just as irresistible to lounge lovers who appreciate the restorative delights of a luxury escape somewhere beautiful. Either way, skier or slacker (you’ll often find both represented in a family or group holiday), you won’t be disappointed.

We stayed in Chamois (named after the charming little goat-antelope that makes it home in the mountains), a slice of seven-bedroomed heaven nestled amongst the trees in the peaceful hamlet of Le Belvedere in Courchevel Moriond. Super spacious – and able to sleep up to 14 people - the lodge covers around 350 square metres, but thanks to its cosy furnishings, chamois-adorned walls and central feature chimney, it couldn’t feel more intimate and inviting.

We were welcomed into our home for the next two nights with a glass of champagne and some delicious nibbles that our lovely butler Jerome had rustled up. I have to say that they were very much appreciated and devoured with enthusiasm following our smooth two-hour transfer from Geneva airport that morning.

Much to our delight it had already started to snow and we were itching to get out on to the wooden deck and into the hot tub to take in the full winter wonderland vista that literally surrounded us. First things first though, and Laure, the lady who manages all four of the Portetta lodges with precision and aplomb, was keen to show us around and get us fitted with boots and equipment for skiing the next day.

Every one of the bedrooms has a real cosy wood-cabin feel about it with soft wool throws, crisp white sheets and plump, feather pillows. The bathrooms were large and perfectly appointed with gorgeous Bamford bath products. A feature common to all Limewood Group properties, from Pig-on-the-Beach to Portetta on the piste!

The main living area is open plan with a huge comfy corner sofa at one end and a smart well-equipped kitchen at the other. Our Alain-Ducasse trained chef was already preparing dinner and we watched in awe as he made perfect ravioli pasta parcels from scratch with the greatest of ease.

Next stop, the spa and home cinema. Yes, this place really does have it all! There’s a private treatment room for post-ski massage and a sauna to warm up the bones and get rid of any aches and pains. But by now, big, fat snowflakes were falling thick and fast and we could resist the hot tub no longer. It was magical and so worth the wait.

Dinner that evening was another magical experience, from the fresh ravioli starter to the beautiful sea bream; the melt-in-the-mouth selection of French cheeses to the wonderful chocolate dessert, all washed down with an exquisite Provencal Rose that ensured everyone slept very well that night.

We woke early to the deepest blanket of fresh powdery snow and a beautifully presented breakfast of bread, cheese, ham, fruit and yoghurt. Eggs and bacon, anyway you like them, were on offer and some of us succumbed to freshly-prepared omelette before venturing out into the biting cold and hitting the slopes. 

Our extremely skilled driver drove us to the bottom of the ski lift where the experienced skiers and snowboarders amongst us headed up to 1850. That left two novices in the capable hands of Yohan, a local ski instructor and friend of Portetta who thankfully demonstrated enthusiasm and patience in equal measure. We had a great few hours out on the nursery slopes and even made time for the obligatory hot chocolate before rejoining our teammates for a visit to the highly-recommended deli in Moribond and –of course – a spot of lunch.

I started off by saying that the Portetta lodges were a great spot whether you wanted to ski or not, and the addition of an amazing indoor water park and spa called Aquamotion, just minutes from the accommodation more than supports my theory. If you fancy a day away from the slopes; if the kids want to do something different; if you need some serious pummelling and pampering; even if you want to go surfing, Aquamotion is a brilliant. It’s a great value destination in its own right that the whole family can really enjoy. And, along with the slopes, it’s right on your doorstep.

It was great to get the ski boots off and unwind in the warm, bubbling waters of the Jacuzzi before slipping into something slightly less practical for dinner. We dined as guests of Le Portetta Hotel, which is just a couple of minutes drive from the lodges. A more welcoming, warm environment you would be hard pushed to find and if you’ve been to any of the Limewood properties in the UK, such as the Pig Hotels, you’ll recognise the rustic, relaxed ambience and immediately feel at home. The food was fabulous at Cucina Angelina, the Italian restaurant run by Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsey protégé, Angela Hartnett. There’s a lovely family atmosphere in the dining room and bar, but it remains low-key and sophisticated despite children of all ages and groups of friends swapping ski stories fuelled by the local red wine.

After another extremely comfortable night’s sleep, we headed back to Geneva to catch our flight home, but not without enjoying one more very special treat. Just five minutes from the airport, located on the picturesque shores of Lake Geneva, sits La Reserve Geneve, a wonderful, luxury hotel that boasts exceptional service, a spa to die for and Switzerland’s only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant. It’s the perfect place to spend a night or two at the beginning or the end of a skiing holiday, before flying in or out of Geneva airport. Relax in the sophisticated spa and indulge in some seriously good food in fabulous surroundings while you contemplate rejoining the real world. Talk about a perfect finish.

  

Swiss Not to Miss

I’d never really considered Geneva for a leisure break before – especially one that didn’t include skis - but after spending two nights at the gorgeous La Reserve Geneve I’d recommend it to anyone for a super-stylish city break in a heartbeat.

Tucked away in beautifully landscaped grounds just minutes from the city, the hotel boasts one of the fastest and easiest transfers I have ever experienced. And, of course, being Switzerland, it naturally ran like clockwork ensuring we arrived in perfect time for lunch.

Like its sister hotels in Paris and Ramatuelle, near St Tropez, the Geneva property has its own distinctive scent which greets you the moment you step into the reception, thanks to the lovely lit candles dotted decoratively around. The dark wood and cosy crimson interiors are brilliantly balanced by huge glass windows throughout the hotel, inviting the crisp, autumn sunshine and bright blue skies in. The juxtaposition creates at once a very open, yet intimate, atmosphere and I immediately felt at home.

With its giant display case of exotic butterflies in the lobby area, and magnificent wildlife portraits adorning walls throughout the property, the hotel is reminiscent of a grand African game lodge. I don’t think I would have batted an eyelid if a herd of elephants had lumbered their way slowly past the window! Touches of African influence can also be seen in the large, super-comfortable bedrooms that boast just about every modern convenience you can imagine and French doors out on to your own terrace.

The bed was a dream and the super-size flat screen TV made the thought of a night in with a Michelin-starred takeaway and a glass of the house ‘Reybier’ Champagne more than tempting. But who wants a takeaway when you can dine at Switzerland’s first-ever Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant without even having to venture outside the hotel? Yes, the already lauded Tse Fung on the lower ground floor of La Reserve, led by celebrated chef Frank Xu, has recently been awarded a very well deserved Michelin star. Moving continents from Africa to Asia, the restaurant’s decadent surroundings, inspired by a 1930’s Shanghai grand palace hotel, provided the perfect setting for an unforgettable gourmet feast that delivered melt-in-the mouth Cantonese classics like dim sum, with a new and exciting twist. It does come with a warning, however…it will ruin your appetite for the usual Friday night take away forever!

Tse Fung is one of five dining options at the hotel and they are all worth a visit. The Loti, in particular, is another really exciting restaurant with a very distinctive menu and a relaxed atmosphere. Award-winning French chef Virginie Basselot is doing it for the girls with stunning combinations of the best locally sourced produce delivering powerful and subtle flavours in equal measure, but always in perfect harmony.

Before dinner, we enjoyed impressive early evening cocktails in the sexy bar that undergoes a complete transformation from its lakeside lounge daytime persona. As well as the hotel guests, the bar attracts a young, sophisticated, local crowd who make the most of the plush, laid back surroundings – and the lengthy cocktail menu! After all that great food and wine – including an afternoon’s chocolate tasting with Swiss chocolatier extraordinaire Philippe Pascoet at his nearby village shop – a visit to the hotel’s award-winning spa was definitely on the cards for the following day.

The Nescens Spa at La Reserve Geneve is a destination in its own right. Elegant, contemporary interiors and soft, gold-hued lighting immediately plunge you into a world of essential oil aromas and pure tranquillity. Just thinking about it now slows my breath and helps my shoulders relax back to where they should be. No mean feat as I crouch over my mac on a wet winter afternoon in Hertfordshire!

A formidable menu of treatments that cover all areas of wellbeing and anti-ageing are offered using a combination of Nescens, La Prairie, specialised cosmecutical brands and a crack team of seriously qualified medical practitioners to administer them all. There’s a whole brochure of treatments dedicated purely to creating lovely legs – smooth, shapely and cellulite free – and don’t even get me started on the fabulous, age-defying facials. Really, just fabulous. There is also a gym, pool, steam room, sauna and a choice of studio classes throughout the day. I did a really good body balance class before breakfast with a very patient American teacher who managed to make it as fun as it was challenging.

The spa is also home to another of the hotel’s dining venues, the Café Lauren. Serene, clean and deliciously guilt-free (well almost, we did enjoy a glass of crisp white wine with our healthy lunch), the café boasts a lighter menu that certainly doesn’t skimp on taste or variety. Again, the spa and its restaurant attracts a laid back Genevan crowd who use the facilities as a local country health club and only add to the chic, yet welcoming vibe that greets every hotel guest.

There is so much more to tell you about La Reserve Geneve – the magical winter lodge and skating rink in winter; the lakeside outdoor dining and great family activities in the summer; the extremely stylish water taxi that provides a free shuttle across the lake to the city centre; the BEST service you will probably ever experience. I could go on, but I really think it’s time you went and checked it out for yourself.